Plant notes
Why I Finally Switched to Bottom-Watering (And Wish I'd Done It Sooner)
I'll be honest: for the first two years of keeping houseplants, I thought bottom-watering was just extra fuss for people with too much time. Then I killed my third calathea with root rot, watched fungus gnats colonize my pothos, and finally admitted I might be the problem. Switching to bottom-watering wasn't some miracle cure, but it solved enough of my self-inflicted problems that I'm now a convert. Here's what actually changed.
The Problem I Kept Creating
My watering technique was essentially 'dump water on top until it comes out the drainage hole' which sounds right but created a mess. The top inch of soil stayed constantly damp, which fungus gnats absolutely loved. Meanwhile, I had no idea if the water was actually reaching the bottom of the pot or just running down the sides. I'd either underwater (dry pockets near the roots) or overwater (soggy top layer), sometimes in the same plant. My calatheas would look fine for weeks, then suddenly collapse from root rot that had been brewing in waterlogged soil I couldn't even see.
What Actually Happens With Bottom-Watering
Bottom-watering just means putting your pot in a container of water and letting the soil soak it up from the drainage holes. I use a plastic takeaway container that fits about three small pots, or my sink for bigger ones. The water gets pulled up through capillary action, which sounds fancy but just means the dry soil acts like a sponge. I leave them for 15-30 minutes usually—you can see the top of the soil go from dry to damp when it's done. The key thing I learned: this method waters the roots first and the surface last, which is literally the opposite of what I was doing before.
What Actually Got Better (And What Didn't)
The fungus gnat population in my flat dropped dramatically within a few weeks because the top layer of soil now dries out completely between waterings. My plants with sensitive roots—calatheas, ferns, African violets—stopped getting root rot because the water distributes more evenly and I'm not creating boggy spots. I also finally learned what 'properly moist soil' feels like because I can check after bottom-watering and actually feel even dampness. What didn't change: I still have to check each plant individually because they don't all need water at the same time, and bottom-watering doesn't make me any better at remembering to actually do it. I also still manage to underwater my succulents somehow.
The Annoying Bits No One Mentions
It takes longer than top watering, especially if you have a lot of plants—I have to do mine in shifts because I don't have enough containers. Plants in cache pots without drainage holes are still a pain (I've started only using pots with holes inside decorative ones). You need somewhere to do it that can get wet; my kitchen counter is constantly damp now. And about once a month, I still top-water to flush out mineral buildup, because bottom-watering can concentrate salts at the surface. I also learned the hard way that plants in very compacted or hydrophobic soil won't absorb water properly from the bottom—you have to fix the soil issue first, which meant repotting my completely rootbound snake plant.
Questions people ask me
How do I know when the soil has absorbed enough water?
The top of the soil will change color and feel damp when you touch it. For my 12cm pots this usually takes 15-20 minutes; bigger pots can take 30-45 minutes. If the top isn't damp after an hour, either your soil is hydrophobic (water-repellent from drying out completely) or compacted, and you might need to top-water or repot. I check by poking my finger in about an inch—it should feel evenly moist, not soaking wet.
Do I still need drainage holes for bottom-watering?
Yes, absolutely. The whole method relies on water entering through the drainage holes. If your pot doesn't have holes, you're just creating a swamp at the bottom. I keep all my plants in plastic nursery pots with drainage holes, then put those inside nicer cache pots if I want them to look pretty. It's less aesthetic but way more practical, and I can take the inner pot out for watering.
Won't the plant get overwatered if it sits in water?
Not if you remove it after the soil is saturated. The plant only takes up what the soil can hold; once the soil is full, it stops absorbing. I dump out any water left in the container after 30 minutes and let the pot drain for a few minutes before putting it back on its saucer. The bigger risk is leaving the pot sitting in a saucer full of water for days, which will cause root rot—that's true for both watering methods though.